The Riderless Horse wins the August 2023 Palio

                           And the name of that horse is ZIO FRAC, winning for OCA- the Goose. 

The Palio is the only horse race in the world where a horse can win although the jockey has fallen off.

That was of course almost a week ago, but in the tumult during and following the Palio, I have not found a moment to sit down to  record it all. My Irish friend Peter has been here, making me laugh, and entering into all the Palio revelry: 

including taking some inspired pictures at the Cena della Prova Generale at Onda. This time Onda was not running in the Palio, so it was a more quiet affair than in July: noone is wearing the Onda scarves for instance, and it was a lot more subdued this time..

We saw the Corteo Storico at the Piazza, for Peter to soak in some of the atmosphere, and take some more pictures:

and then, just before the Palio started we ran down to the Onda Contrada head quarters and saw it on the  huge screen. It was  good way to see it- this time a totally engrossing race, full of twists and turns of fate,  with everyone standing up and screaming at the top of their volume- first it looked as if the 5 times consecutively victorious Tittia would yet again sail home for an easy win for Giraffa  but the unfortunate Abbasantesa smacked straight into the mattresses at the first San Martino bend,  a second after this shot below: 

and had to be taken to veterinary hospital, but is recovering well. 

Pantera, with the jockey Scompiglio- Jonathan Bartoletti-took advantage of this unexpected bonus and sailed ahead on Anda e Bola, into what looked like a sure win for two turns around the Piazza until he too  went down, his horse having lost a shoe. Then, for a moment Torre, the deadly enemy of Onda looked set for  victory when suddenly, out of nowhere, came the lovely Zio Frac, cutting the trajectory of Torre and Tabacco, 

and arriving victorious to the finishing line. The Ondaioli were deafening in their joy- if we  are not running, the most important thing is not to have to witness  our great enemy Torre win. This is all Contrada stuff that I have not quite assimilated yet, and frankly, might never quite understand. I am still feeling that this 'enemy' business is more of a light hearted affair...but then of course I am, and will always be, a late-comer and an outsider somehow, however welcoming many of the Ondaioli have undoubtedly been to me.

Meanwhile, the  three rooms in the house have been full of lovely guests: the last one the young Chinese Cellist ZhiYu, who is still here, doing master classes at the Chigiana Music Academy, and in the meantime being kind enough to give us  little concerts at night, while she practises. Here she is, with the Bach Cello suites. How lucky am I?

Interactive Theatre

 Well, since last time I wrote, my little mini Auberge has been pretty well frequented. 

It says in the AirBnB hand book that I should  make some House Rules which should be easily seen by the guests. But I don't even know where to start. I have decided to let the rules make themselves gradually, when I see what is necessary. Guests have followed unwritten rules anyway.  For instance, they have asked me if they are allowed to smoke on the balcony, taking it for granted that they are not allowed to smoke in the rooms...

                                                  

After the inspirational Rose, I have enjoyed the quiet and gentle company of George, the Unkrainian jazz guitarist, with whom I discussed gender politics, religion and Ukraine, of course, finding out so much about his part of the world, until now so alien to me. 

And now there is the young Dutchman with an unpronounceable name, who is kindly allowing me to call him Marengue. He too is very quiet and polite, but has been slightly led astray by the South African Dino, who has taken on the role of a Pied Piper, since I first told him about the continuing Siena summer fun which I visited with Rose at Bruco and which has now moved on to the Contrada Of Nicchio. Dino leads them all there- those from here and those he knows from the Dante Alighieri language school. |Only this time I have not been included: the Bright Young Things are out revelling most nights at Nicchio, back about 3, and I am not invited... It has suddenly dawned on me that they are between 22 and 40, and I am now having to accept being  in my late sixties (Ugh!) so it is probably normal that they do not invite me...

So, every time a new guest arrives, I really have no idea what will happen. For instance, yesterday arrived Marco from Sicily, who is here for 12 days, studying the Contradas, for his anthropology PHD. Whereas most people have been rather timid and stayed in their rooms until I try and drag them out of their shells by inviting them for a drink, for instance, Marco has immediately imposed his presence. He has moved all sorts of frozen Sicilian delicacies into the freezer- he flew in to Florence, armed with an icebox packed by his Mama, so he wouldn't have to survive on Tuscan ware. He sits on the balcony having breakfast, having somehow, in the deepest recesses of the drawers  found a clean tea towel which he is using as a table cloth. After his breakfast he PUTS IT BACK in the drawer...I say nothing. Not a great problem really. He leaves the door open to his room while he is studying or writing, and Sicilian hip-hop drifts through the rest of the flat. 

And as a scenic back drop to these goings-on, there is the never ending fun and interest of the 'Rear Window' view from the balcony, crowned in the distance by the melancholy Memento Mori of the Facciatone, the architectural attempt to beat Florence in grandeur which was stopped short by the Plague...

                                         
Meanwhile, I have to negotiate what happens in order to enjoy this and in order to DIRECT  this stage play, so both I and my guests  enjoy it. And I feel like a director,  It is in my power to create something here, something good. 

I must remember what Andrea wrote: In questo posto qualcosa magicamente crescera...