The Riderless Horse wins the August 2023 Palio

                           And the name of that horse is ZIO FRAC, winning for OCA- the Goose. 

The Palio is the only horse race in the world where a horse can win although the jockey has fallen off.

That was of course almost a week ago, but in the tumult during and following the Palio, I have not found a moment to sit down to  record it all. My Irish friend Peter has been here, making me laugh, and entering into all the Palio revelry: 

including taking some inspired pictures at the Cena della Prova Generale at Onda. This time Onda was not running in the Palio, so it was a more quiet affair than in July: noone is wearing the Onda scarves for instance, and it was a lot more subdued this time..

We saw the Corteo Storico at the Piazza, for Peter to soak in some of the atmosphere, and take some more pictures:

and then, just before the Palio started we ran down to the Onda Contrada head quarters and saw it on the  huge screen. It was  good way to see it- this time a totally engrossing race, full of twists and turns of fate,  with everyone standing up and screaming at the top of their volume- first it looked as if the 5 times consecutively victorious Tittia would yet again sail home for an easy win for Giraffa  but the unfortunate Abbasantesa smacked straight into the mattresses at the first San Martino bend,  a second after this shot below: 

and had to be taken to veterinary hospital, but is recovering well. 

Pantera, with the jockey Scompiglio- Jonathan Bartoletti-took advantage of this unexpected bonus and sailed ahead on Anda e Bola, into what looked like a sure win for two turns around the Piazza until he too  went down, his horse having lost a shoe. Then, for a moment Torre, the deadly enemy of Onda looked set for  victory when suddenly, out of nowhere, came the lovely Zio Frac, cutting the trajectory of Torre and Tabacco, 

and arriving victorious to the finishing line. The Ondaioli were deafening in their joy- if we  are not running, the most important thing is not to have to witness  our great enemy Torre win. This is all Contrada stuff that I have not quite assimilated yet, and frankly, might never quite understand. I am still feeling that this 'enemy' business is more of a light hearted affair...but then of course I am, and will always be, a late-comer and an outsider somehow, however welcoming many of the Ondaioli have undoubtedly been to me.

Meanwhile, the  three rooms in the house have been full of lovely guests: the last one the young Chinese Cellist ZhiYu, who is still here, doing master classes at the Chigiana Music Academy, and in the meantime being kind enough to give us  little concerts at night, while she practises. Here she is, with the Bach Cello suites. How lucky am I?